Our stop in Kusadasi included a visit to the House of the Virgin Mary and Ephesus. This is post number eight in our “Greek Isles Cruise and Rome Adventure” series. In this post, we take you through our excursion highlights, from the peaceful hillside shrine believed to be Mary’s final home to the inspiring ruins of one of the ancient world’s great cities.
This article is part of the Greek Isles Cruise and Rome Adventure series. You can view the full series here.
Kusadasi arrival
As our ship eased into Kusadasi, it was interesting to see from this perspective how the city revealed itself. Being high up on a cruise ship, looking from sea to shore, there were layers to the city. Closest to the water, a lively row of shops and restaurants hugged a large promenade. Letting my imagination run a bit, I could almost smell the grilled fish and fresh bread drifting across the harbor, even from our high perch on deck. Beyond that, older apartment buildings climbed the hillside, their balconies crowded with potted plants, laundry swaying gently, and the kind of small personal touches that make you wonder about the lives of the people behind those windows. And, a final layer of mountains with windmills.
From day one, Demi was always noticing the shimmering water. And this harbor was no exception. The water shimmered in the morning sun, with small yachts, ferry boats, and working fishing boats bobbing in the gentle water. At its far end, a small island jutted from the shore, serving as the perfect display case for a weathered stone castle that had likely watched over this harbor for centuries. And high above it all, in bold white letters stretched across the hillside, “KUSADASI” announced itself, part welcome sign, part seaside Hollywood nod, unmistakable to anyone arriving by sea. It felt both historic and modern, familiar and foreign all at once.
Kusadasi and Ephesus excursion
We chose the Highlights of Ephesus excursion, a 4-hour tour including the House of the Virgin Mary, Ephesus, and a Turkish carpet presentation on the return to port. Other options ranged from a 3-hour Ephesus-only visit to a strenuous 7.5-hour tour of Ephesus, Magnesia, and Miletus with lunch, plus Kusadasi walking tours. We selected this one for its key stops, moderate activity level, and shorter duration, which would then allow time to explore Kusadasi on our own. The tour warned of smooth, uneven stone paths and recommended non-slip shoes.
When it was time for our excursion, we met in the ship’s theater as instructed, joining the small crowd of fellow passengers bound for Ephesus. When our group was called, we headed out through the corridors, onto the gangway, and stepped onto the pier. I could still see the KUSADASI sign from the pier. From there, we walked to the waiting bus bound for the ruins.
Our first stop would be the House of the Virgin Mary. We wound our way through the streets of Kusadasi, passing shops, small markets, and apartment buildings before heading out into the countryside. Our guide kept a steady commentary, pointing out groves of olive trees and a few other sights I wish I could remember now. The further we went, the less of the city we saw, and soon it was just hills, scattered houses, and the feeling that we were heading out into a calmer part of the country.
House of the Virgin Mary
When we pulled into the parking area for the House of the Virgin Mary, the first thing I noticed was the sea of buses. Our driver somehow squeezed ours into a spot, which felt like a minor miracle on its own. I had no real historical knowledge or reference about the place, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. With that many tour groups milling around, it had a commercial, touristy vibe. Our guide took us only as far as the first part of the site, near the gift shops and cafes. From there, we were on our own, making the short walk up to the actual house. We had about an hour to explore, which felt just right, enough time to take it all in without feeling rushed, but also enough to use the restroom and grab a coffee or a souvenir if we wanted.
The walk up the hill to the house was short but steep enough to get your attention. The path wound through quiet greenery, trees, flowers, and the occasional birdcall breaking the silence. Even with all the visitors, it felt surprisingly peaceful. Along the way, a few small benches invited visitors to stop, rest a bit, and take it all in.
The House of the Virgin Mary is believed to be the final home of Mary, the mother of Jesus. According to tradition, it was discovered in the 19th century after visions led a local nun to the site near Ephesus. While its exact history is debated, the house has become a place of pilgrimage for many. Whether or not you come for faith, it’s a spot steeped in centuries of reverence and mystery.
As we made our way up to the house, I noticed to the left an outdoor chapel where a small service was quietly taking place. The soft murmur of voices and the flicker of candles added a peaceful, reverent atmosphere that contrasted with the busier area near the shops. I recall that one of the excursion options was to visit here and attend a service and I wondered if that was the occasion here.
A quick line and quick walk through
When we reached the house, there was a line of visitors waiting to go inside. The building itself looked small to me, though, without any real frame of reference besides our modern homes; maybe it was about average for its time. The line moved pretty quickly, and it was made clear that no photos were allowed inside.
The walk through the home was brief. Even so, there was a quiet, almost holy feeling in the air, a sense of calm. Still, with the steady flow of visitors, we didn’t have much time to take it all in or fully absorb the interior.
After exiting the home, we passed some displays and small exhibits, though I didn’t get a clear sense of what they covered. There was an impressive wall of white knotted material. I had no idea what it was at the time and learned later that it was a Wishing Wall. There were some visitors filling their water bottles from the holy fountain.
There were restrooms along the path heading back down towards the shops. It’s always a good idea to take advantage of restrooms when available, and we did so. The restrooms were clean and modern. As you might imagine, the line was longer for the women, but Demi said it moved quickly. I mainly mention this because I see lots of people asking questions about the availability of restrooms at tourist sites, not just in Turkey, but everywhere. There was a separate restroom in the area of the shops. As expected, they seemed to be “busier” than the one closer to the home.
Before long, it was time to head back and meet our group at the bus. It took a few minutes to find our bus among the many, but we managed. Next, we were off to Ephesus, a place I wasn’t too familiar with but excited to see.
Ephesus Bound
The ride from Mary’s House to Ephesus didn’t take long, but the scenery shifted noticeably. The wooded hillside soon gave way to open fields, scattered farmhouses, and distant hills. Our guide shared bits of history along the way. Ephesus was one of the great cities of the ancient world, a bustling port and cultural crossroads along the Aegean coast. Although founded by the Greeks nearly 3,000 years ago, most of the ruins visible today, like the Library of Celsus and the Great Theatre, date from its Roman golden age, about 1,900 to 2,000 years ago. Visitors can still walk the same marble streets and imagine the energy of a city that once stood at the heart of the Mediterranean world. I’ve seen photos of Ephesus before, but nothing quite prepares you for the scale of it when you first arrive.
Busy and a bit frustrating
It also didn’t prepare me for just how busy it would be. The place was packed with tour groups. Dozens and dozens of them. All moving in clusters along the narrow stone paths. The midday sun was hot, and the marble underfoot was, as promised in the literature, both slippery and uneven, making some spots tricky to navigate.
We were using small, wireless communication devices to listen to our guide, but they weren’t very effective. More often than not, her voice was lost in the static or drowned out by the noise of the crowd. It was frustrating. A couple of times, I would hurry to the front to catch a few sentences of her commentary, but weaving through the crush of people wasn’t easy, not to mention the uneven, slippery path! Demi and I soon resigned ourselves to just being a part of the flow and just taking it in as observers. I would casually listen in on other tour guides as they addressed their tour group to gain some information and insight.
We followed the path deeper into the site, moving past columns, archways, and stretches of carved stone that hinted at just how grand this city must have been. One section opened onto a wide street paved in marble, lined with the remains of shops and buildings. Further along, we saw the sculpture of Nike and the Temple of Hadrian. The slow walk down the hill led to the Library of Celsus. It is a work of beauty. Its façade is towering and ornate, even after nearly two thousand years.
Toward the end of our walk, we came to the Great Theater, carved into the hillside. Even from a distance, its size was impressive, having seated tens of thousands in its prime.
For me, it’s hard to get my head around the age of these ruins. While the tour was a bit frustrating from an informational standpoint, it’s an incredible experience to walk among the ruins and imagine what life would be like at that time. The craftsmanship, engineering, and ingenuity of the people during this period are inspiring. I will admit that the large crowds and the pace of the tour detracted from my ability to become emotionally invested in the setting. In all fairness to the tour, it was billed as a “highlights” tour, and we believe we got that. The crowds, more so than the tour itself, were the main detractor.
Friendly cats
The theater was the last “highlight” on the tour, and we wandered towards the exit. The exit area was covered in trees, offering shade from the sun. There were also benches to take a breather after the tour. Our attention soon drifted from the main attraction to the small colony of feral cats lounging in the shade. They seemed utterly at home among the ancient stones, weaving between tourists and stretching out lazily in the heat.
We had about half an hour after the tour to wander through the shops near the exit and use the restroom before meeting the bus. The shopping area wasn’t all that impressive, and we didn’t end up buying any souvenirs. Some of the shopkeepers were a bit pushy, calling out as we passed and trying to draw us in, which honestly was more of a turn-off than anything. Demi and I found a bench to get off our feet and watch the cats. One even jumped up on our bench.
From there, our group boarded the bus again, and we were off to our final stop in Kusadasi. But that part of the day, along with a stroll on the promenade and a memorable meal, deserves its own story.
We hope you enjoyed this journey through the House of the Virgin Mary and the timeless streets of Ephesus. In our next post, we’ll return to Kusadasi for a closer look at our final stop, a colorful rug presentation, followed by a leisurely stroll along the streets and promenade. Also, a meal that surprised us a bit. It’s a blend of culture, local flavor, and surprises you won’t want to miss. Here is the link Kusadasi Part 2.
You can learn more about Ephesus and get tips on sightseeing tours and other activities here.
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