This is post 11 of our “Greek Isles Cruise and Rome Adventure” series. After sailing into Naples, we boarded our coach and headed out on our Pompeii Day Trip. Pompeii, a city frozen in time with its streets, homes, and everyday details, offering a glimpse into life nearly 2000 years ago. Walking among the ruins, it was impossible not to imagine the stories each corner could tell. If you haven’t read previous posts in this series, you can start from the beginning here.
Pompeii Day Trip
We spent the better part of the day walking over ash-covered footsteps in a city paused in mid-breath. Laughter from a local tavern, squeaking wheels of a wagon, a child’s voice, nothing we could hear, but easy enough to imagine.
It was our first time in this part of the world, and our shore excursion from Naples to Pompeii was something my wife and I had been eagerly anticipating. The tour was presented as a four-hour “highlights” experience. Although more extended tours were available, we only had a day in Naples and wanted to spend some time there as well. In many ways, it lived up to the hype. Wandering the ancient streets and soaking in the ruins was truly unforgettable.
What Happened Here?
At one time, Pompeii was a bustling Roman city. In its heyday, Pompeii wasn’t just any Roman town; it was a kind of vacation spot for the wealthy. Thanks to its location near the Bay of Naples, mild climate, and rich soil, it attracted well-to-do Romans who built lavish villas there, many of which were decorated with detailed frescoes, fountains, and private gardens. Some came to escape the heat of Rome, others to enjoy a more leisurely pace near the sea. Ancient Pompeii was a true seaside getaway of its time.
In 79 AD, Mount Vesuvius erupted, burying everything under tons of ash and rock. Not lava like many may think. The disaster was sudden and devastating. Oddly enough, that thick blanket of volcanic material ended up preserving the city almost perfectly. Jump ahead to 1748, when Pompeii was rediscovered by accident during some routine digging for a canal. What did they find? Essentially, a time capsule of ancient Roman life, homes, artwork, and even food left on tables. Sadly, they also uncovered perfect casts of human and animal remains, those not fortunate enough to flee the city. Most historians estimate Pompeii’s population at around 10,000 to 12,000 at the time of the eruption. Based on excavations, roughly 1,100 to 1,200 bodies have been discovered within Pompeii’s city limits. Scholars estimate that a total of about 2,000 people may have died as a result of the eruption.
Today, excavation of the site continues along with the ongoing efforts to help protect what remains, so visitors like us can wander the streets and gain a genuine sense of what daily life was like nearly 2,000 years ago.
First Impressions: Walking into Pompeii
Our bus parked just across from the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance. As soon as we got off, our guide Luigi split our group into two smaller, more manageable groups. A smart move for any tour. Luigi led our group, while another guide led the other group. He handed out wireless receivers and earphones so we could all clearly hear his commentary.
Most tour groups use these systems now, earphones similar to the wired kind you’d use with a phone, fitting snugly in your ear. You can even use your own wired earphones if they have the right kind of plug.
Luigi told us the earphones were ours to keep, which felt like a nice touch. Some tours collect them afterward, but keeping them made me feel better knowing they weren’t reused. I’m sure many would agree!
Setting the Tone of our Pompeii Day Trip
After making our way through the entrance, Luigi led us over to a glass enclosure that connected to a bookshop. Inside the enclosure are casts of several Pompeii residents frozen in time by the fallen ash. Crowded with tourists and lacking clear lines or organization, it wasn’t easy to secure a front-row view. We finally made it up front and took our time taking it all in. The glass was slightly dirty, smudged, and overall cloudy, making it difficult to see clearly. Nonetheless, seeing these figures helped set the tone and establish the reality of where we were and what had taken place here. Taking photos was unsuccessful due to the glare and slight cloudiness of the glass.
I tried to imagine the fear they must have felt. I imagined mayhem, people screaming, elders trying to give directions, and dogs barking, all while the ash fell and the ground rumbled from earthquakes. Did they know what was happening? Did they believe it was something supernatural?
Amphitheater
Making our way from the entrance on a wide-open path, the area had a park-like feel to it. Trees, flowers, benches, water fountains, and public toilets. Even some feral cats are lazily resting in the shade.
The amphitheater is the first ruin you see on this particular tour route. We weren’t allowed inside the amphitheater due to temporary restoration activities. That was unfortunate, because apparently, there are times when you are allowed to explore inside. But, standing just outside was enough to feel its presence. The outer walls are worn with weeds and flowers sprouting from the crevices, but they seem to be in excellent condition for their age. It’s hard to imagine it was built in 70 BC!
I walked close along the wall, running my hand over stone that is so old I can’t even calculate the age. There are entry arches, but they are locked. It’s easy to imagine the crowds gathering outside, waiting to enter for the day’s events, whether it be combat, athletic events, or animal hunts. One thing that sticks out in my mind is how steep the steps are leading up to the top of the amphitheater. Leading to the “cheap seats?” They are blocked off, but you can stand at their base and get a good view of the steepness.
Looking around, it’s a fairly open space. Likely by design to handle the crowds of the day. And, of course, just off in the distance, Mount Vesuvius looms. Before moving on, Luigi let us know that towards the end of the tour we would at least be able to go down into the tunnel that leads into the amphitheater, but again, not entering the grounds themselves.
Praedia di Giulia Felice
The next stop on the tour was Praedia di Giulia Felice, the estate of Julia Felix. As we walked from the amphitheater towards the estate, Luigi explained that this is a good example of how the wealthier citizens of Pompeii lived. This was a large property for its time and occupied an entire street corner. As we made our way onto the property, it was clear that, at one time, the courtyard had been adorned with lush gardens and fountains. I could easily imagine myself walking among the flowers and fruit trees with the sound of trickling water from the fountains. It’s not unlike what many of us strive for or enjoy today, a calm, meditative space to unwind and reenergize.
Peering into the various rooms, I am still in awe of how the frescoes have survived with such detail and vibrance. There are depictions of plants, landscapes, and villas.
Leaving the property, I couldn’t help but think how oddly modern it felt. Standing there, taking one last look, I again wondered about Julia Felix’s life. Luigi explained that she was a wealthy woman who, after the earthquake of 62 AD, which caused widespread damage to the city and the surrounding Bay of Naples region and from which the city was still rebuilding, perservered.
Julia Felix opened her estate to the public, offering rental apartments and private baths. He provided that, in a way, she turned her home into a refuge for a city trying to find its rhythm again after the earthquake.
All this led me to wonder how she gained her wealth. After all, women in those days didn’t necessarily have the same access to money and property as men. Was she born into it? Did she have a wealthy husband? I did some research and found that there is a dispute not just over her upbringing, but also on how she acquired her wealth. I’ll leave it at that for now.
The Streets of Pompeii
Stepping through the front door of Julia’s villa, we found ourselves on via dell’Abbondanza. This street was a main thoroughfare in Pompeii, bustling with activity that included public debates, shopping, taverns, bakeries, and housing. It provided access to all areas of Pompeii. Taking my first look around, I noticed how high the “sidewalks” were from the road. Not so high that you couldn’t step down, but high enough in some places to give someone with bad knees or a disability trouble getting onto the road or back onto the sidewalk. And, of course, Mount Vesuvius is lingering in the background.
As we walked with Luigi, listening to him explain daily street life in Pompeii, I stepped down onto the street. The stones are uneven, deeply rutted from centuries of long-gone cart traffic, and definitely not easy on the ankles. The sidewalks are only marginally better. Even with all the missteps and stubbing of toes, there was something oddly satisfying about walking here. You’re literally walking in the tracks of ancient Romans.
Ingenious Design and Past Conversations
Along with the raised sidewalks, there are stepping stones at intersections. The stepping stones are about the same height as the sidewalk. The design is an impressive dose of Roman engineering. The streets would often flood from rain and overflow from the aqueduct. The roads were actually designed on a slight slant leading out from the center, allowing the water to flow away from the city. The stepping stones, likely the first crosswalks in history, allowed for street crossings when the streets flooded with water, sewage, animal waste, and whatever else might be floating along.
The details of our time on the street that stayed with me: the cart tracks, the stepping stones, the fading graffiti on walls, the worn doorways of homes and shops, the cisterns and water fountains. If you paused for a moment away from the noise of other tourists, you could let yourself hear conversations from the past, laughter coming from a tavern, or the smell of bread from one of the many bakeries. In the overall scheme of things, life hasn’t changed all that much.
Street corner bar
We made a short stop at a local tavern along via dell’Abbondanza. These were thriving public forums for socializing, meeting friends, and discussing the day’s activities, not unlike the bars of today. This particular one had an “L” shaped bar, an oven, and sleeping quarters. It seems that you could order a drink or food right from the sidewalk. Several of the walls were covered with frescoes.
Luigi brought our attention to three bored-out cylinders in the stone bar. Each had a different size in circumference and depth. These cylinders have also been found in other taverns. The hypothesis is that the cylinders were used to count money. The servants or enslaved people who labored at the tavern likely couldn’t count. However, they could take a coin or coins and fill the cylinder to the correct height, ensuring proper payment without needing to count. A simple yet ingenious idea.
The buffet and Venus
One of the more interesting spots was a thermopolium, essentially an ancient Roman food stand. The counter is still there, with deep circular openings where large clay pots once held hot food, kind of like a stone buffet. No sneeze guard, though.
Luigi, like any great tour guide, set the scene for us. He asked us to imagine people stopping in for a quick meal, chatting with neighbors, or just getting out of the house for some fresh air and a bite to eat. I couldn’t help but think of the Seinfeld episode, “No soup for you!”
Like many of the other places we saw, there was something surprisingly relatable about this scenario. Even in 79 AD, people still appreciated a warm lunch that didn’t require their own cooking.
We also visited the “House of Venus in a Shell.” In this private home, the main attraction is its namesake, a beautifully preserved fresco of Venus lounging on a giant seashell, surrounded by a lush garden scene. As I said earlier, I fell in love with all the frescoes. This one was elegant, even a bit whimsical. I think the splash of colors and creativity are a testament to the happiness and imagination that must have filled these homes before the ash fell.
On Our Own in Pompeii
Making our way back to where we began, we were on our own, browsing the city some more. Luigi only asked that we meet back at the amphitheater at a designated time. We had about 40 minutes to explore. Reaching the end of the street, we took one last look down via dell’Abbondanza and Mount Vesuvius before turning the corner and heading to the amphitheater. We really wanted to get back there so we could walk through the tunnel leading down to the amphitheater grounds.
This turned out to be a big disappointment. Walking down the tunnel, with its slight decline in grade, we were anticipating what was around the corner at the end of the tunnel. Around the corner? A plywood path surrounded by plywood walls and a plywood roof. On the walls were posters of the amphitheater. Thinking we would at least get to see the amphitheater from ground level, this was a letdown. Peeking through spaces between the plywood, we were able to get a glimpse, and I was able to fit my phone through the space for some photos, but that was it.
Pompeii’s Lasting Impression
For us, our Pompeii Day Trip fed our excitement and lived up to our expectations! In that short time, we felt we got a meaningful glimpse into daily life in the ancient city, and a deeper appreciation for the tragedy that preserved it. Our guide, Luigi, did an excellent job painting vivid pictures with his words and enthusiasm, helping us imagine the sounds, routines, and even personalities of those who once lived here. The pace and length of the tour were just right, not overwhelming, and rich with insight. More than anything, it left us curious. We walked away wanting to learn more, but not in a bad way. In a lifelong learner sort of way.
Here is a link to the official site of the Parco Archeologico di Pompeii (Pompeii Archeological Park). This site is the official Italian government-run portal for the Pompeii archeological area, with up-to-date visitor info, hours, maps, and site notices straight from the administrators.
Thanks for following along! Our next entry continues with our stop in Naples. A visit to a cameo factory to see cameos being made and a quick bite of some Neapolitan pizza.
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